Forearm Motion Related Questions

Hi,

Thanks for the new series re: forearm motion. It’s great and helps clarify certain things.

I do have a number of additional questions related to this technique:

  1. To relate the motion back to your much earlier description of 3 major dimensions of motion: (a) ulnar deviation and radial deviation; (b) supination and pronation; © flexion and extension (door knocking), is it fair to characterize the technique as a combination of (a) and (b), namely ulnar/radial deviation and supination and pronation?

  2. Based upon the videos, it appears that the is a fixed amount of pronation that sets a neutral point for the motion. Is that correct?

  3. Your videos re: DWPS (which I know may soon become an anachronistic term), explicitly show that to achieve the pick slant in first place that the hand gently angles down. You don’t specifically as far as I can tell show how the downward pick slant is achieved with this hybrid technique involving forearm motion. Is it inherent in the pronated neutral position of the hand that you show? Or is there something else.

  4. Aside from the comfort that you describe as being associated with incorporating flexion into this technique, are there any other advantages? I personally had experimented with that mechanic when trying to play a lot of arpeggiate figures on acoustic guitar and found it somehow helped with accuracy and string tracking. Not sure why.

  5. Your suggestion as using the rest stroke as a good litmus test for checking execution of this hybrid technique seems like a valuable suggestion. Although, I am not sure it is 100% determinative that it is being executed correctly?

  6. Finally, what is the status of the magnet production. I wasn’t clear from the threads in the forum. I am debating whether to build it myself or whether it’s worth waiting for a manufactured version. Any timeline on this.

Thanks.

-Jon

1 Like

Hi Jon! I’ll leave the forearm questions to @Troy but to address the Magnet q—

Most recent discussion here, short answer is we don’t have a concrete timeline but our goal is to raise funding for a production run soon (likely via Kickstarter) and aim to get to the manufacturing stage later this year. As yet nothing certain but the earliest possible manufactured version would probably be ~ late 2020. We should have more news in the next couple months.

Hi Jon! I’ll just answer these in order.

There aren’t just three, there are lots. Pronation / supination is forearm joint motion. Deviation and flexion/extension are wrist joint motions. Flexion / extension also happen at the elbow joint, and at various thumb and finger joints too. So the two you are asking about are forearm and wrist joints. The exact blend of motions used in the forearm-wrist motion depends on your arm position, whether you use more or less forearm, and whether you use more or less wrist. Lots of variables. But all four forearm and wrist motions are included. It is not just deviation, because the wrist is moving diagonally and using both deviation and flexion and extension, along with forearm motion.

But that’s all super academic. You shouldn’t need to think about that when doing the motion. You’re mostly thinking about anchor points, where you want the pick to go, and what it feels like.

I don’t know what “neutral” means when it comes to this motion. You have your anchor points and your motion, and again, by varying these, you can get all kinds of slightly different types of this motion. If you look at the slow motion examples in the lesson chapters there is tons of variation there. In magnet view, some of the motions appear more curved, some appear more linear. They all feel slightly different and I don’t know why I sometimes choose one over the other. It’s not conscious. But none of them represent any particular “neutral” version of the motion that I can think of.

Sorry for the confusion! “DWPS” isn’t anachronistic. As long as you’re talking about the orientation of the pick, we’ll definitely keep using the term for that. That’s what it is, and what the term sounds like, so I think that makes sense. We’re just not going to use it to describe the motion. The motion is upstroke escape, or downstroke escape, and it’s done by various joints. The motion doesn’t depend on the “slant” of the pick, it’s just a set of anchor points and joint motions you’re trying to copy.

We tried to! There is no single thing you “do” to “do pickslanting”. It’s the result of how your entire picking arm is positioned, from the shoulder on down to the grip. So in the new lesson chapters, I tried to give you every aspect of my setup to recreate what I’m doing exactly. I know this may not sound as simple as “do XYZ with your hand” but it’s more correct.

Try not to worry about the “pickslant” too much. If you get all the parts oriented the same way I have them, then the pickslant should be correct for the motion you are trying to do. If it’s not, and the pick feels like it’s catching on downstrokes or upstrokes, double check your setup matches mine. If it’s still not, try small adjustments in thumb flex until the attack feels smooth. Only minimal adjustments should be necessary, otherwise something else is wrong in your setup or our instructions.

Doing a rest stroke is not the test for doing forearm-wrist motion correctly. It’s the test for avoiding stringhopping. You can do a rest stroke with elbow motion, forearm motion, wrist motion, and combinations of all of the above. Can you do a rest stroke and still be stringhopping? Probably. If a person is making an inefficient bouncy motion but they happen to hit the next string while they do it, it might look or feel like a rest stroke, but you’ll know it’s wrong because it won’t feel smooth or fast.

Ultimately, it doesn’t matter if you’re doing this motion exactly the same way I am. It just matters that it’s smooth and fast, and escapes when you want it to. You can film yourself in slow motion and look at it to make sure. A regular tripod positioned close is fine for the mean time. Or you can play USX lines and just make sure you don’t hear any hitting of unwanted strings. If the motion is more wrist than forearm, or more forearm than wrist, but it passes your smoothness test, then don’t sweat it. Sounds good, feels good = is good!

2 Likes

Thanks Troy. Will keep all of this in mind.

-Jon

I’m glad I did a search before posting some questions. You answered a lot of them here. Thank you!

I do have a couple of other questions regarding this motion if you don’t mind continuing this conversation a little bit.

I believe for the most part I am doing this motion right. I can do the floating version like Joscho Stephan really well, with no touching of the bridge or strings with the side of the hand. I have found that the result of not anchoring the side of the hand on the bridge is that the motion is almost exclusively forearm motion and hardly any wrist. I get really good results when doing this, and I don’t have any issues with muting either.

I want to be able to do the anchored motion as well to achieve palm muted sounds when I want to. When I anchor the side of my hand on the bridge/strings I noticed the motion requires more wrist movement. The consequence I’m seeing in my slo-mo videos is that sometimes I’m not clearing the plane of the strings on the upstroke and I’m “swiping” through the current string to get to the next highest string on an ascending line. My suspicion is that when I anchor my hand my motion becomes too much wrist and not enough forearm, making the escape path too shallow because of the arm orientation. Would you say this sounds accurate? Should I work on getting that forearm moving a little more when anchoring?

My other question is about pick grip while using this motion. I’m a trigger gripper. I noticed in your demonstrations that there’s a decent amount of pick pointing out from your thumb. I tend to choke down on the pick a lot more so there’s much less pick poking out. I have experienced some issues with this, like missing the strings and knuckles scraping against the strings. But when I let more pick point out from my thumb my strokes get weak and the pick seems to flop around a bit. How tightly do you squeeze the pick? I can get the strokes to be stronger if I squeeze the pick tighter. But something tells me this is not right. I also wonder if I’m just picking too hard?

Also you mentioned in one of the videos that the pick will lean towards the electronics. I noticed this in my playing too. When doing the floating version the pick is much more perpendicular to the body of the guitar, but when anchoring it definitely leans toward the electronics a bit. Sometimes for me this results in the pick slightly shifting in my grip so that it’s pointing pretty far left and scraping much more on the trailing edge of the pick and less on the leading edge. Is this okay or should I focus on mitigating this?

Thanks for your help!

Sincerely,

Johnny