Please send me a pic of your bridge.
The guitar sounds and feels pretty good atm
The bridge is floating, just short of a minor 3rd.
How does this factor in?
Also, he found a bad tuning peg, would you happen to know what set works for this particular strat?
With the saddles in the same place, a floating bridge will have higher action. Try to get to a minor third proper, that’ll give you a bit more height. Also dont be afraid to have the screws a little under the top of the saddle, as you can see below I’m at the outer limit of saddle stability. I looks like it’ll wobble under trem use; but the side wall threads are holding them in place.
The tech couldn’t get it any further, due to the 5 springs (raw), and e flat tuning…
The screws in the Callaham bridge were literally outside the holes of the saddle @ 2mm
Any thoughts on tuners for this model strat?
How about locking tuners?
Which model of raw saddles for this bridge and will they come with long enough screws?
Sorry for all the questions, but I’m in in to win it!
I like the way the guitar sounds and plays currently, I’m wondering if I should just leave well enough alone… I am intrigued by the string height of 2.5 if it really makes a big enough difference on this guitar…
If you’re using the regular fender springs; only use 3 of them. This is important, you’ll feel it.
If you’re using Raw Vintage Springs, then use all 5, as their tension is lower. And that mass adds something, that’s their thing low tension high mass. edit: just noticed your using RAW, hmmm… thats odd. Try pulling one out; or better yet send me a pick of your setup as well.
Raw Vintage Saddle model is the narrower one, 108
Just replace the tuning peg with the same, they’re known as Fended Vintage F types.
More than anything you need to get some of MusicNomad’s Tune-It lubricant for the nut, string trees, saddle(where the strings touch) and the bridge baseplate string holes. This is very important.
Avoid locking tuners, if your going out of tune your not lubing it right. Also, check your 6 point bridge mount screws if they’re set correctly. Test is without the springs on the bridge, and there should be zero warble/wobble.
This is how I set the 6 screws, first raise them a few turns so they’re clear of the bridge base plate but just. Then lower the edge screws and pull back on the bridge, there should be no lift off the body, from the front or the back. The do the other screws, each time checking the bridge sits perfectly on the body. Then add the springs and check again.
Glad to hear your liking this guitar this time around! Yeah 2.5 may take some getting used to but it sounds killer with those skinny strings at Eflat.
Another thing I need to do on my guitar is cut the intonation springs on my G and low E strings, as you can see in my pic, I’m fully backed up on my G string and that’s adding undue tension on the screw threads, could strip the saddle! Worthy mod.
This is great! Thank you! I’ll send pics later…
The difference this time? The malmsteen strings…they’re fantastic, plus the modern bridge , string spacing is perfect for me.
Need to get that action higher though…
I’ll keep you posted. I owe you!
You want some Dokken tab? 
RE: saddles
On amazon, the 10.8 are listed as “Gotoh” are these correct for my Callham bridge?
Thanks
Yes. No worries bro 
Enjoy the strat. drop a spring if the claw wont budge.
Ok the Gotoh 10.8 , correct?
Can I buy a set of taller saddle screws for this Callaham bridge?
You would think GC would have some aftermarket screws for one of the most beloved guitars ever made on hand🙄
Yes 10.8 is the one.
They should easily accommodate you; call them up, callaham that is. I love their trem arm; they dont flex and the fit is perfect.
If you get the RV saddles try to change them out one at a time on the same set of strings and check if you find the tone change; reg fender to RV saddle was a big change up, I’ll be curious to know if the same gains are to be had with he callahams.
You can also add neck relief for the rest. Sorry I didn’t think of that earlier; should save you some cash in that case.high action is no problem with scalloped and the YJM strings.
You lost me here… neck relief?
Edit. Ah yes my tech did adjust the truss rod for more relief. Were at 1.25 mm
Honestly, I might forgo the raw saddles and just have my tech raise the action with the taller screws for now… I think the tone is really good.
I have a clean boost in the front of the amp
Thanks
Unless there’s something wildly different with how the neck connects to the body on a Yngwie strat, I wouldn’t have any qualms about shimming the pocket to take out some of the neck angle to allow you to have less-absurdly-low action with the standard screws (which SHOULD offer enough range). In fact, from what you’re describing, I wopuldn’t be shocked if there was an exiusting shim in the pocket towards the bridge side that you could just remove, because you shouldn’t find yourself in a situation where you have to max out the adjustment screws to get action to something even as low as 1.5mm. That’s kinda nuts.
The tech saw a small shim in the pocket already on the end pointing towards the headstock.
I found it unusual as well that the screws were maxed out at 1.25mm.
Can I buy taller saddle screws?
I’m glad you’re enjoying the tone! Clean boost works really well with this guitar, I’m’ curious bout the 308 preamps though.
Here’s mine with the RR100 via an SM57.
@Drew good catch on the shim, beats the purpose of the machine bolts; shocked to know there already was one; I wonder if came that way from the factory! I guess sometimes you gotta shim!
Very weird. A shim there should, in theory, decrease neck angle/create negative neck angle, which should make the bridge need to sit LOWER in the body to keep action from getting too HIGH.
Did your tech take it out or is it still there?
No he left it in… it looked like a plastic tab or something…?
